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Essential Travel Tips for Marrakesh and Morocco

Traveling to Morocco for the first time can be intimidating and overwhelming for many travelers, even for the experienced folks. The mélange of sights, sounds, and cultural differences in this vibrant city can trip many up. These are tips that can help make your arrival smoother and less stressful.

1- Book a transfer from Marrakesh Airport to your hotel. Taxis in Marrakesh have a well-deserved awful reputation for ripping off tourists and also refusing to turn on their meters. After a long flight, the last thing you want to do is haggle for a reasonable fare.

I highly recommend Marrakesh Airport Transfer. I booked online two days before my arrival with flight information. My driver was waiting for me after I exited baggage claim with my name on an easily identifiable sign and escorted me to a clean air-conditioned car. The cost was approximately $12 for a 15-minute ride to the Sofitel in the city center for one person. Prices will change depending on the number of people and the destination. I checked with my local friends and the price was reasonable for tourists. Locals generally pay a different rate in Morocco, usually 50% less. Additionally, this was much cheaper than the 30 euros quoted by Sofitel or 20 euros from other riads. (Riads are traditional Moroccan houses or palaces located in the medina that are converted into bed and breakfast.)

2- Do not exchange a lot of currency at the airport. The exchange rates at the airport currency bureau are always a scam. I would recommend withdrawing only a small amount from the ATM before exiting the airport, just enough for a day of expenses. If you have Euros with you, then this is not necessary as most people will accept Euros until you can exchange for dirhams.

Head to Hotel Ali (Rue Moulay Ismail), located around the corner from the post office in Place Jemaa El Fna, where the exchange rate is the BEST in the city. This exchange bureau is open 24 hours. My guide and drivers also confirmed that is where other locals exchange their dirhams for Euros. For example, the rate at the Sofitel and at the airport was around 9 dirhams to 1 usd while the rate at Hotel Ali was 9.3 dirhams to 1 usd.

3- The maximum fare for a taxi anywhere in central Marrakesh for tourist is 50 dirhams. The average local fare by meter is around 25 dirhams; however, 99% of the taxis will not turn it on. Instead, you will need to ask for the price and confirm it before getting into the taxi. Most will quote 10 euros at the start, which you should scoff at and say it only costs 25 dirhams but you’ll pay a little more. You will likely settle on 50 dirhams.

4- Cash is king. Most places, unless they are hotels or high end restaurants, do not accept credit cards. When they do, most will tack on a small fee to use it.

5- Dress conservatively. Even though Marrakesh is a major metropolitan modern city, it is still a Muslim city. In an Arab culture, men will stare at women (somewhat menacingly accordingly to my local guide), even if they mean no harm. It’s part of the culture and dressing appropriately will make you less of a target, especially in the souk. I would suggest knee-length sleeveless dresses that cover the shoulders and bringing a light jacket or scarf with you.

6- Ignore all catcalls or flattery. This is a way that vendors get you into the store and you will have a hard time leaving. Just walk on unless you really want to go into the store. Remember to bargain hard and target for a price, at minimum, at least 50% less than the initial quote.

7- Ignore street kids who “nicely” offer to guide you to your destination in the souk. They will demand at least a few euros for their efforts and often in an aggressive manner.

8- Download an offline map and wander. I generally feel safe in Marrakesh as a solo traveler, but the medina is a maze. It’s ok to get lost and discover its grungy beauty during the day. I always download the destination map on the app so I can use it without data.

9- Staying in a riad is a must-do experience in the medina. Finding your riad is another thing. Make sure your hotel let you know where the taxi should drop you off. Cars are not allowed in the medina and there are often hundreds of riads. Most drivers will not know where they are located. The drop-off point is crucial to finding your hotel effortlessly. If you have a lot of luggage and the riad is far from the entrance, you may need to get a guy with a cart to carry your luggage. This should cost around 30-50 dirhams.

I would recommend staying at Riad Idra in the medina. My experience was equivalent to a stay an exclusive luxury hotel that treats you like family.

10. Wear your seatbelt in the backseat. If you are traveling by car outside of Marrakesh, there will be numerous checkpoints in and out of every village and you can be fined around $30 for not wearing your seatbelt.

11- Ramadan is the best time to visit Morocco. Even though the closing hours for most attractions are earlier at 5pm instead of 7pm, there are fewer tourists and the locals are less boisterous. It’s the most relaxing time to visit Marrakesh. It’s especially a good time for female solo travelers to explore Morocco.

Marrakesh is a wonderful bustling North African city that is generally safe for solo travelers.These tips will help you become a pro at navigating the nuances of the city.

Check out our blog on 2 Days Chillaxing in Essaouira, Morocco

For related articles, visit the TRAVEL page or the World Travel Index.

Author: Chau Hoang

2 Days Chillaxing in Essaouira, Morocco

Essaouira has to be Morocco’s most laid back beach town and luckily, only a short 2-hour drive from Marrakesh. When I asked my local friend to help me plan my Morocco vacation, she suggested this sleepy seaport town. At first I didn’t know what to make of it because it’s not a resort town dotted with luxury hotels that one would expect. However, the chill atmosphere there provided a much needed respite from the bustling city. It felt very much like a backpackers’ haven.

I decided on a short 2-day trip to Essaouira, leaving Marrakesh at 9am and returning the next day at 3pm. This turned out to be just enough time to sample what the town had to offer in short period. Essaouira is known for ocean sports such as kite surfing, so if you are into that, then you’ll need a few more days. I booked my own private transfer through my friend’s recommendation with Hiba Tours, which cost 160 euros or approximately 190 dollars. The car ride was comfortable and Jamal, the driver and owner, was very professional and friendly. There are cheaper alternatives such as buses and shared cars; however, I did not mind paying more for convenience.

After checking into the Villa Quieta, I took a 5-minute cab ride to Skala de Port, the main center of town.  I noticed right away the friendlier and nonchalant attitude of the locals as compared to Marrakesh. Most are going about their business and do not generally mind tourists. This is different from Marrakesh where you are constantly asked to pay… even for a photo. I wandered along the seaport admiring the famous blue boats that are synonymous with this town. As seagulls flew around trying to catch scraps from the fish market, it made for beautiful dynamic photos. I was lucky to witness local fisherman unloading their treasures, sparkling sardines, to the market and to see local women bargain for their meal that day. The sights, sounds, smells and attitude are very different from the city…it felt like I had landed into people’s daily lives and caught a glimpse of the actions. A fun fact if you are a Games of Thrones fan, the show filmed Daenery Targaryen’s acquisition of the Unsullied soldiers here, so you’ll be able to visit places showcased on the series.


An hour later, my stomach was growling so I walked toward the seafood shacks that lined the port streets. Since it was Ramadan, only one seafood shack was opened. It’s not a tourist friendly activity as you will have to barter in French for the price of the seafood. It is almost guaranteed that you’ll be ripped off, but it still made for an interesting experience. I knew I had grossly overpaid for my lunch, but I was very hungry so stomach won over brain. I selected a few sardines, squids and sea urchins for the restaurant to grill and proceeded to share a table with another tourist. The experience was great until I left. One restaurant staff kept aggressively demanding more money from me even though I already paid the crazy inflated sea food price before sitting down. As I sped away, I felt as if I was being chased by the menacing vendor, which soured the whole experience for me. Maybe because I was eating solo so people felt they could take advantage of me. This could be different if you travel with others.

I was agitated from the experience because I felt genuinely unsettled for the first time. These things happen more often than not in Morocco…so I had to remind myself to let it slide. I then wandered around the medina and city center for the next few hours in relative peace. What a contrast from one bad apple!


As I admired the view from the ramparts, I met a fellow traveler from London and his friend from Marrakesh who became great company for the rest of the day. The best part of traveling solo is meeting great people from around the world in the most unexpected ways. We decided to take a 30-minute walk to the Ocean Vagabond restaurant to laze away the afternoon. Ocean Vagabond was highly recommended by my friend for good reasons, the outdoor patio is shaded and has lounge chairs and beds for you to relax comfortably. As we waited for the sun to set over the ocean, I could not help but smile at the stillness of my state of mind…a rare occurrence in this overstimulated world.


For dinner, I checked out a new riad, Salut Maroc, that has live music and sweeping views of the ocean and ramparts from their terrace. The service and food were excellent and the interior is a mix of trendy Moroccan aesthetic mashed together by a mad hatter. Somehow, it works and becomes a visual feast. Dinner with acoustic indie music was a perfect way to unwind from the day’s activities.

After checking out of the hotel the next day, I made my way to Sidi Mohammed Ben Andallah Museum. Half of the fun is trying to find this museum housed in a 19th century mansion in the medina. This small museum has a nicely curated collection of artifacts, weapons, pottery, jewelry representing the history of the region. It was a good escape for 20 minutes and cost 10 dirhams. Not wanting to repeat the same experience for fresh seafood from the day before, I went to Chez Jeanrot Chalet de la Plage, another recommendation, for lunch. The restaurant is located on the beach around the corner from the port entrance with a beautiful terrace overlooking the ocean. The prices are reasonable by western standards in a very customer friendly space. I chatted with fellow travelers and sampled the expertly grilled sardines and fresh sea urchins, the two items you must eat in Essaouira. A fellow diner summed the dining experience up nicely… “sometimes you just don’t want the hassle for lunch”.

Walking along the beach and watching families hanging out and children competing in impromptu soccer matches reminded me that no matter where we are, we are all alike. People just want to spend time with their loved ones and unwind after a long day. This is the essence of Essaouira.

Places to See: Skala du Port, the Citadel, Skala de la Kasbah, Ramparts, Fish Market, Medina, Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah Museum

Places to Eat:

Lunch: Chez Jeanrot Chalet de la Plage and Ocean Vagabond

Dinner: Salut Maroc (for sunset drinks and live music) and Zahra Grill at Riad Zahra

Marrakesh to/from Essaouira Transfer: Hiba Tours or What’s App +212 673 598443

Special thanks to Zach Idrissi of the Amani Hotel Appart for his recommendations.

For related articles, visit the TRAVEL page or the World Travel Index.

Author: Chau Hoang

House Tour: An A-Frame House Obsession

A-frame vacation houses from the 1950’s to the 1970’s are making a strong comeback, especially with current owners upping their Instagram game. These deceptively simple structures resemble an equilateral triangle. The first floor has an open layout for all the typical living spaces. The roof covers the rafters and goes all the way to the ground forming the “A”. The second floor is comprised of horizontal collar beams creating a sleeping loft. What makes these A-frame houses magical are the minimalist aesthetics and the harmonization with the natural surroundings. We discovered the A-Frame Haus located in Utah recently on AirBnB and fell in love with this delightful vacation home.

This cabin was built 30 years ago by the grandparents of the current owners. They spent a few years renovating this house and have now listed it as a vacation rental. There are three bedrooms and three bathrooms that comfortably fit 6 guests. It also has a panoramic view of Utah’s mountains for those seeking to escape from everyday stresses. The styling of this house is simple, comfortable and welcoming at the same time. It is all in the details.

A-Frame Hause 3

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Find more information about the A-Frame Haus here.

For related posts, visit our DESIGN page.

Author: Chau Hoang

Photos courtesy of Kate Osborne @aframehaus

Review: Anantara Mai Khao Phuket Villas

Phuket has always been on my list to visit whenever I am in the southeast Asia due to the inordinate amount of enticing beach photos that are published on social media. On my recent trip to the region, I was able to fit a few days in Phuket. The biggest question while researching the popular destination was where to stay because Phuket is renowned for its amazing luxury resorts and party towns. After receiving advice from my Thai friends, I opted to stay in the northwest region of Phuket as the weather is better there in November and my main objective was to relax. I selected a 5-day stay in a pool villa at the Anantara Mai Khao Phuket Villas located near the Sirinath National Park. Did the 5-star resort meet my expectations?


This 91 villa-only resort is catered to honeymooners and high-end clientele. The location is approximately a 20-minute cab ride from Phuket International Airport. Each villa has an infinity pool making it a perfect spot to hide away for days. Alternatively, there is a large scenic infinity-edge beachside communal swimming pool and direct beach access from the property; one of the few resorts with direct access to a semi-private beach in the region. Due to conservation regulations, there are no amenities on the beach itself so most guests will either be at the pool area or in their own villa. The busiest time at the beach is during sunrise and sunset (obviously).


Because the villas are spread out and bicycles, which are complimentary for guests to get around are scarce and usually broken, it can be a trek to reach the main facilities on the property. There are a lot of mosquitos in the area, even after daily spraying from the hotel. We had to use 4 coils around us every time we sat outside and would still get bitten. Lastly, the management’s response to my issues are not at the level of a 5-star hotel.

Final Hotel Assessment: 1 (terrible) to 5 (excellent)


Reviews of hotels from various sources (i.e. Trip Advisor) are accurately reflecting the current condition of the accommodation

I generally agreed with the overall positive reviews on TripAdvisor. The resort is highly ranked on TripAdvisor and

Hotel room description is the same as the booking information website: (5)

Pictures do not do the villa justice. The layout is wonderfully designed so there is a view and access to the pool from each room in the villa. The size of the smallest pool villa was large by any standard. The villas are cleaned twice a day, which keep the rooms spotless and fully stocked with every bathroom amenities imaginable. The interiors are decorated in tropic chic with the comfiest King size bed that I had slept in a while. A Bose wireless speaker is available for guests to use so we could play our own music anywhere in the villa. Overall, the room felt like an oasis for a weary traveler and exactly what I was looking for with this escape.

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Check in Process: (5)

Guests are greeted at the main pavilion and are quickly given a cold towel and juice to temper the heat and humidity, even in November. Check-in was quick and then we were driven in a golf cart to our villa. A quick tour of the amenities followed once we arrived.

Food/Beverage Services: (5)

The breakfast buffet was a highlight of this resort. Even though there are fewer guests than a traditional hotel, the selection and variety were made for triple the occupancy. The selection of juices available each day was astounding and a healthy start to a lazing session later. The quality of the ingredients and flavors of each dish made it one of my favorite buffets among many excellent ones that I have tried in Asia. My friend and I ate so much at breakfast that our only other meal was dinner each day.

Lunch was available at the restaurants on site or via room service. We used room service to order fruit plates and snacks and they arrived very quickly. For dinner, we ate at seafood shacks around the hotel as we wanted a change of scenery, thus I can’t comment on the dinner options in the resort. If the breakfast buffet was any indication, dinner should be at international standards.

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Issue resolution from management: (2)

I had an accident while staying at the resort where I fell in the pool and landed on the stairs. This resulted in a badly scraped and bloody arm and a very bruised back. We could not find the first aid kit in the room and later found out it was in a pretty box with no first aid signage. I limped to the lobby and asked for bandages. The concierge asked if I should see a nurse, which I had assumed it would be the resort’s nurse. The hotel actually called the hospital nurse to come and bandage me and then gave me a $50 bill for the visit. When I disputed the charge because I was not told of this fee prior to the treatment, the answer was that it was my responsibility. I was charged $50 for bandages and saline solution.

After a few irate calls later and requesting to speak with the manager, the hotel waived the fee. It was a frustrating experience as I was injured on the property and would have bandaged myself if I could have found the hidden first aid kit. Management could have facilitated this experience much better and not nickel and dime their guests, especially for a resort demanding an average of $500 a night per villa.

Customer Service: (5)

The staff are the nicest people around; although, I generally find that to be the case with most of Thailand’s best hotels. English is spoken by the main lobby staff, however other hotel workers sometimes struggled beyond basic English requests. I had brought along a swan floaty from New York and the staff kindly blew it up for us and also packaged it for my friend to take it on the plane with her at the end of the trip. The meticulous and friendly staff elevated the experience at the Anantara.

Spa: NA

There is a renowned spa at the resort with luxury level pricing. Thailand is known for spas so if this is something that you want to experience, I would recommend it. I had my fair share in Bangkok so I opted to skip this service.

Amenities: (4)

Beyond the amenities in the villa, the hotel offered bicycles for guests to get around the resort. The problem is finding the bike and half of the time, mine was broken. The hotel really needs to invest in more bicycles and ensure that all of them work properly. There is also a small gift shop next to the restaurant. A tiny gym is available near the beach along with the restaurants. Overall, the resort had enough amenities to keep guests occupied for the ultimate getaway; however, I would not recommend this resort for families. It is just not that type of clientele.

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Overall Rating: (4.5)

The experience at the Anantara Mai Khao Villas was what I had hoped for. It was the ultimate private and relaxing getaway from a busy lifestyle. I took off half a star for the mishandling of the pricing dispute as this is something that management should have dealt with better. I highly recommend staying at this resort for your next visit to Phuket.


For related articles, visit the TRAVEL page or the World Travel Index.

Author: Chau Hoang

Bánh Khọt  – Vietnamese Mini Rice Pancakes

Bánh Khọt is a very popular snack originating in the central region of Vietnam. The dish is made of miniature rice pancakes topped with shrimp and eaten with herbs and vegetables and a spicy sweet fish sauce. Street vendors usually hawk this savory treat with their sizzling griddle beckoning all to try them. The perfect bánh khọt is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Even though it is a fried dish, this snack can be semi-healthy with the amount of vegetables and herbs that are usually eaten in each lettuce wrap.

Difficulty: Easy / Servings: 4 people / Time: 30 minutes


1 to 1.5 pound of large shrimp (depending on the size). You can also substitute shrimp with mushrooms or ground meat.

1 and 1/2 cup Bánh Khọt  mix (rice flour, corn starch, wheat flour)

2 teaspoons of turmeric powder

1/2 cup corn starch

1/2 cup of coconut milk

2 cups + 3 tablespoons of water

1 tablespoon of fish sauce

1/4 teaspoon of sugar

1/2 teaspoon of lime juice

1 teaspoon of garlic

1 teaspoon of red Thai chili

3 tablespoons of water

Vegetable oil


ground pepper

6 scallions


1 red lettuce or Boston bib lettuce

2 seedless cucumbers

A bunch of mints

A bunch of ngo gai or cat mint (optional)

Korean green chili (optional)


You’ll need a pan with welds like this Norpro Nonstick Stuffed Pancake Pan.


Combine 1 and 1/2 cup of batter mix with 1/2 cup of cornstarch, 1/8 teaspoon of ground pepper, 2 cups of water, 1/2 cup of coconut milk, 1/4 teaspoon of salt and 2 teaspoons of turmeric powder. Whisk until all the ingredients are mixed thoroughly.

Beat 1 egg in a small bowl and then combine it with the batter. Let the batter rest for at least 15 minutes.


Remove shells and veins from the shrimp and split them into 2 halves lengthwise. Marinate the shrimp with 1 and 1/8 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon of sugar.

Minced 2-3 cloves of garlic, enough for 1 teaspoon, and set aside. Slice the cucumbers into thin 1/8 inch slices.

Make scallion oil by microwaving 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil with diced scallions (6 scallions) for 30 seconds.

To make the rice pancakes:

Add about 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil into each weld with the pan on high heat. When the oil gets hot enough, add 1 tablespoon of batter to each weld. (You can test the temperature with a scallion head and wait until it turns golden brown and then discard it.)


Quickly add half a shrimp to the top of the batter and close the lid. (You will need to do this as soon as you pour the batter for the shrimp to stick onto the rice pancake.) Turn the heat down to medium or medium-high. Cook for approximately 2 minutes until the bottom turns golden. Flip each pancake over and close the lid for another 2 minutes. Once the shrimp side turns golden brown, remove the cakes from the pan and top with some scallion oil. These rice cakes should be eaten right away since they will turn cold and looses their crunch after 15 minutes. (Usually the first batch is the throw away batch due to the variance in stove temperature.)


Combine 1 tablespoon of fish sauce, 3 tablespoons of water, 1 and 1/2 tablespoons of sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of lime juice, 1 teaspoon of minced garlic and 1 teaspoon of red Thai chili (optional).


To eat bánh khọt, make a lettuce wrap with one pancake and a few mint and cat mint leaves, and then dip the it into the savory sauce. Enjoy this snack with your friends and family at the next gathering. It is always a hit with my friends and family.



For more recipes, visit our EAT page or Recipe Index.

Authors: Susan Tran and Chau Hoang

Review: Creative Omakase at Michelin-rated Sushiyoshi (Osaka, Japan)

Getting to experience the creativity of Chef Nakanoue Hiroki at Michelin-rated Sushiyoshi was the culinary highlight of my recent Japan trip. Although Osaka has a booming street food scene, its sushi has generally played second fiddle to Tokyo’s. Sushiyoshi is trying to break that narrative with its creative omakase. I had heard great things about this 26-year-old sushi-ya and was excited to try it. As an added bonus, Chef Hiroki speaks decent English and his exuberant personality makes the experience memorable for all guests. How did this chef’s tasting stack up to all the other omakase?

When I arrived at 7pm for my reservation, there was already a full house as the sushi-ya contains only 8 seats at the counter. I was escorted to my spot at the end of the bar and was promptly served tea and a hot towel. Japanese omakase can be intimidating for non-Japanese tourists; however, Chef Hiroki was very welcoming. My omakase started with salmon and caviar tartar housed in an “apple” wafer vessel. The wafer reminded me of a candy that I ate as a child. My curiosity peaked as I was served a bowl of cherry tomatoes. I thought it was going to be some fancy tomato concoction…but it was really just delicious tomatoes. This was likely intended as a palate cleanser much to my embarrassment.

The second course was sama sashimi that was beautifully wrapped in a shiso leaf. The third course was sama-pressed sushi, Japanese pike fish with sugar sprinkled on top. There was a hint of smoke, which contrasted the crunchy sweetness of the sugar. Osaka is known for pressed sushi and this was an interesting take on the traditional nigiri that I’m used to. The fourth course was mashed shrimp with its brains served alongside a plate of rock salt. I was instructed to squeeze some fancy lime onto the salt plate and then dip the shrimp paste on it. The citrusy salty mixture elevated the delicate sweet shrimp. At this point, I got the hint that I was in for a different “omakase” than what I had expected. It is much less about the nigiri and more about Chef Hiroki’s interpretation of the “sushi” chef tasting.

The fifth course was a traditional Japanese grouper nigiri, which was delightful. However, it was not as spectacular as the previous courses in terms of creativity. I was also served pickled cucumber as a palate cleanser instead of the typical ginger and it was very refreshing. The sixth course was raw oyster from Brittany served with tuna and caviar from a fish that the Chef Hiroki caught in Bordeaux. It was a burst of ocean flavor and easily one of my favorite of the night. The story of how he caught the fish added to the enjoyment. The seventh course was cod sperm sac and lime. Funny enough, Chef Hiroki was a bit shy and amused while explaining cod sperm to me. I assumed he expected me to be nervous about it, but I’m an adventurous eater so that did not phase me at all.  The lime was also a variety that I have not seen before; it was crunchier and longer in length than the US version. The eighth course was cod sperm hand roll, which looked like an intestine from a small animal. Surprisingly, it was creamy and soft, almost like cream cheese, and luckily not fishy at all.

The ninth course was baby sardines served on a spoon with a quail egg yolk. The creamy egg yolk ameliorated the salty sardines making it a delicious combination. The tenth course was a more traditional chu toro nigiri, a reminder that Chef Hiroki can do traditional sushi with the best of them.  The eleventh course was salmon roe, ikura, made from Hokkaido salmon. The preparation process was entertainment in itself as he made the ikura in front of us. Chef Hiroki informed us that salmon from Hokkaido had doubled in price due to the low inventory, which I mused that we were adding to the situation by eating salmon eggs. Normally salmon roe is marinated in a combination of soy and other ingredients. This rendition of ikura was prepared fresh from the sac at the bar with just a little drizzle of soy and a sprinkle of yuzu zest resulting in the exceedingly fresh salty eggs. Another entertaining tidbit was seeing Chef Hiroki’s assistant painstakingly roasting each seaweed over a small charcoal grill, one by one. That is commitment to freshness.

The twelfth course was a highlight of the dining experience due to how much fun and interactive it was. We were given marshmallows on a long skewers and were guided to go outside the restaurant. Waiting for us was Chef Hiroki with a bucket of coal and straw roasting bonito while sitting on the street in front of his restaurant. That is not something you see every day. As guests all crowded around the fire while ignoring curious passersby and roasting their marshmallows, we all had animated short moments with the chef. As I was trying to capture the experience on my camera, Chef Hiroki asked for my cell and proceeded to take a selfie of us. That was very spontaneous and a great memento for me. After what seemed like 15 minutes, we moved back inside and savored the street-side grilled bonito. The smoky flavor from the hay added depth to an otherwise delicate fish and the accompanying wasabi mousse. At this point, I was very full and satisfied. However, Chef Hiroki was not finished as we had four courses left to go…to my horror.

The thirteenth course was grilled sea eel, simple and elegant. Luckily it was a small portion as I was hitting my limit. The fourteenth course was soup made from bonito and seaweed broth with maitake mushrooms and a splash of lime. It was minimalist and complex at the same time. I happily slurped this up thinking dessert was next. To my astonished delight, Chef Hiroki made a sea urchin and caviar pot just for me as he knew it was my absolute favorite thing to eat. All the other diners looked on with a mixture of jealousy and amusement as I devoured the Hokkaido uni. The “fifteenth” course was Courbet apple, a variety native to Japan. Chef Hiroki checked each apple under the light to ensure that it had maximum “honey” center, a juicy part that surprisingly tasted like honey. Additionally, the apple had a crunchy texture similar to an Asian pear. The last course of the night was a coriander sorbet with mango mousse and olive oil, a satisfying end to my 16th (officially) or 17th (with the extra uni pot) course omakase.

Chef Hiroki made the omakase experience very memorable with his mad hatter’s energy and with his culinary alchemy. There is only one seating per night for eight seats at $250 a person. This is an experience that is worth the price tag in a sea of other great restaurants in Osaka.


Chef Nakanoue Hiroki

Address: Japan, 530-0054 Osaka Prefecture, Osaka, Kita, Minamimorimachi, 2 Chome−3−23, 和光住建南森町ビルⅡ 1F

Phone: +81 6-6361-0062

Click here for our 3 “Days” of Gluttony in Osaka, Japan. 

Click here for our 2 Day Temple Stay in Koyasan, Japan.

For related articles, visit the TRAVEL page or the World Travel Index.

Author: Chau Hoang

3 “Days” of Gluttony in Osaka, Japan

Osaka has been a YouTube sensation over the past few years due to its reputation as a street food haven. The city has been overshadowed by Tokyo and Kyoto for the last decade and is now finally coming into its own. On my recent trip to Japan, I made it a point to include this foodie destination on my itinerary and the city did not disappoint. I had limited time since it was only three full days, so my trip was packed with eating and some sight-seeing. This is my foodie adventure in the kitchen of Japan.

Day 1: Dotonbori

I had underestimated how long it would take for me to travel from Bangkok, so by the time I arrived at my hotel, it was already 7pm. Since I only had three full “days” in Osaka, every minute counted. I quickly made my way to Dotonbori, the heart of Osaka’s entertainment district, which reminded me of New York’s Times Square with its bright neon signs and throngs of tourists. I quickly searched for Mizuno, the oldest okonomiyaki restaurant in Osaka. Okonomiyaki is a savory pancake made with flour batter, shredded cabbage and various toppings. Mizuno is THE destination for okonomiyaki in Dotonbori. It is also easy to spot the restaurant as there is always an hour wait out the door. Don’t make my mistake of waiting while hungry because it is pure torture and the one-hour wait felt like an eternity. My patience paid off as I sat at the end of the eight-seater bar. The host had already taken my order while I was in line for their most popular okonomiyaki made with mountain yam flour, shrimp, scallops, and pork. The experience was similar to teppanyaki in which chefs would cook on a griddle in front of the diner. As soon as I dug into the crunchy pancake smothered in mayonnaise and a barbeque-style sauce, I was in foodie heaven. The only downside to traveling solo was that I couldn’t order more food to try as everything just smelled heavenly.

After Mizuno, I walked around the main gallery toward the famous Glico running man sign, the ubitiqous symbol of the vibrant city. Much like Times Square, lights lit up the night sky and there was sea of people wherever I looked. To take a break from the claustrophobia inducing crowd, I ventured along the walkway situated next to the river. The calm and quiet here were an interesting juxtaposition to the bustling activities one level up.

Feeling like I had worked off enough of the okonomiyaki, I searched for the next popular dish in Osaka, takoyaki, a ball-shaped snack made of wheat flour batter and filled with scallions and octopus. I stopped by the Konamon Museum for their rendition of takoyaki and I was not disappointed. In my excitement to try it, I forgot how hot these suckers were because my mouth was scorched. After I got over my burnt tongue, I feasted on the octopus balls, which were slightly crunchy on the outside and pillow soft inside. By the time I was finished with my snack, it was around 9:30pm and I had just enough time to try one more restaurant…although, my stomach was starting to protest at this point.

For the last meal of the night, I stopped by Kushikatsu Daruma, famous for its deep fried skewers and operated by the same family since 1929. I was able to squeak in before they stopped accepting guests. I quickly got a seat at the bar and ordered a few skewers to try. What is there not to like about fried food with Japanese flair?! My favorite was the mochi skewers, which were crunchy outside and chewy inside. I would dip each skewer into a communal kushikatsu sauce that was on the bar for a burst of flavor and to offset the grease. There is no such thing as double dipping here. Additionally, raw cabbage was served with the meal as a palate cleanser in between each skewer. Pairing fried food and a cold glass of soda was the perfect finish to my first night in Osaka.

Day 2: Eat and Eat Some More

I had planned an aggressive morning itinerary starting with breakfast at Endo Sushi at 5am, which I did not attempt at all due to exhaustion from traveling most of yesterday. When I finally woke up, I realized I did not have much time until I met my friend for our reservation at Naniwa Kappo Kigawa. The thought of food got me out of the comfortable bed and ready for my full day of gluttony. Kappo is the casual cousin of Kyoto’s formal kaiseki, which focuses on traditional Japanese cuisine. Naniwa is a Michelin-starred restaurant that is known as an institution for kappo and has trained some of the best chefs in Osaka. As I approached the restaurant located in a traditional alley called Hozenji Yokocho, it felt like I had stepped back in time. The sliding door opened promptly at 12 and the hostess welcomed us into the shop. Unfortunately, we got the upstairs section, which I did not know about so we did not get the full kappo experience of watching chefs prepared the exquisite food. The courses came out expeditiously and the server was very accommodating and sweet. Every course was a meticulous visual feast followed by a flavor medley in my mouth. My favorite was the main course depicting autumn, which was a work of art. It was so beautifully plated that I did not want to ruin the presentation by eating it, but someone had to do that hard job. (Check back for our in-depth review of the experience.)

After the 11-course lunch, I was ready to do some sightseeing. I got on the shockingly efficient train system as compared to NYC’s antiquated subway and made my way to Osaka Castle. I needed to exercise some of the food off before my next meal so taking in the famous sight was a two-for-one activity. The 16th century castle was rebuilt in 1931 after numerous fires and is now a classic and elegant symbol of the city. The interior of the castle contains an observatory on the top deck and five floors of exhibits on its history. As the line for the elevator to the observatory was out the door, I huffed and puffed it up to the 8th floor the old fashion way. Worst, I did not count on the amount of walking at this destination! The exhibits were interesting, especially a recreation of a samurai battle using tiny figurines. The surrounding parks reminded me of Central Park with nature enclave in the middle of skyscrapers.

After two hours, I made my way over to Shinsekai, the retro area of Osaka near the downtown “Minami” area. In the middle of Shinsekei is the Tsutenkaku Tower, a reminder of the neglected area that is now starting to be hip again. It is known to be “seedy” due to a high population of homeless people and prostitution…however, it is very safe by western standards. I did not know what to expect when I arrived, but this had to be one of my favorite areas of the city due to its authenticity. There were not as many tourists here and it was legitimately a time capsule of the 1970’s as soon as I exited the subway. My friend and I started to get hungry and, luckily, we discovered a hidden gem of a neighborhood sushi joint: Sahei Sushi. The tiny hole-in-the-wall only contained a sushi counter and an English picture menu. The chefs, the server and locals in the restaurant did not speak English at all…it’s exactly what I was looking for. The sushi was cheap, fresh and delicious. It was a perfect appetizer to our dinner an hour later.

Osaka is next to Kobe so is also known for amazing beef, hence we had to try it. For dinner, I made a reservation at Matsuzakagyu Yakiniku M – Houzenji Hanare in Dotonbori for the famous matsuzakagyu beef, one of the top three types of beef in Japan. Yakininiku M is an “affordable” way to sample the different cuts and is so popular that reservations must be made at least a two weeks in advance. As the beef cooked on the table grill, the sizzling sound was hypnotic as the fat just melted and caramelized. It was every beef lover’s dream. As we ate our way through the various cuts, I could not help but to “ooh” and “ahh” over every piece. It was that good!

By the end of dinner, I could have been rolled out the door and called it a night. However, we were still missing the elusive Rikuro’s jiggly cheesecake. Japanese cheesecake is a cross between a soufflé and American cheesecake. I was lucky to arrive when a new batch came out of the oven so I got to see the stamping ceremony with the bell and the efficiently fast packaging of the cakes. As I bit into the warm and fluffy slice, I was on cloud nine. My stomach at this point could not expand anymore indicating the end of my day two eating fest.


Day 3: Train Station Goodies

On the third day, I bid my friend goodbye and headed to Namba station for my trek up the mountain to Koyasan. It was the perfect opportunity to try convenience store food. I found a shop and was able to stock up on various onigris and snacks for the three-hour train and bus trip. I was overjoyed when I found the Nankai Soba booth right by the train platform. That is what I call Japanese convenience. Luckily they had some pictures with numbers so I could order and pay at the vending machine. It was not the best soba noodle soup ever; however, it was good enough to give me a healthy start for my long trip to Mount Koya. (Click here for in-depth blog on our Mount Koya adventure.)

Day 4: Another Gastronomic Feast

After arriving back at my hotel that afternoon from my quick trip to Koysan, I quickly made my way to Ramen Yashichi, ranked 39 out of the top 50 ramen shops in Japan by Tablelog. I speed walked to the shop as it was getting ready to close for the day. The heart pounding dash was worth it by the time I sat at the bar and slurped up this delicious chicken based ramen. I can definitely say it was the best ramen I had in Japan thus far. Yaichi’s ramen had the right level of saltiness, thickness and fattiness. The chefs and servers did not speak English, but were very helpful as they helped me navigate an all Japanese vending machine.

After a late lunch, I headed to Doguyasuji Arcade where the restaurant supply stores are located. As I hunted down each store in the alley for perfect chopsticks and holders as gifts, I wished I had brought a bigger suitcase to bring everything back with me. My favorite store was Osaka Shikki in the arcade. They had the most gorgeous and unique cutlery and chopsticks guaranteed to give you sticker shock. I ended up buying most of my gifts there and it was worth the high price.

As the stores all closed early, I made my way to Sushiyoshi, a Michelin-star restaurant, known for its innovative omakase. Chef Nakanoue Hiroki is both a creative genius and approachable at the same time. The highlight of my dinner was when Chef Hiroki went outside of his restaurant to roast bonito fish with a bucket of straw while his diners roasted marshmallows. I was even more surprised when he asked for my phone and took a selfie with me. This is a representative of the culinary alchemy and luckily the food is as good as the mad hatter’s creations. (Click here for the in-depth review.) The whole dining experience took 4 hours and I was sad to leave at the end of the night having made a new friend in Japan.


View from my room at the Marriott Miyako.

Day 5: Last Meal

On my return from Koyasan, I had booked a room at the Marriott Miyako Hotel, located in Abeno Harukas, the highest skyscraper in Osaka. The view of the city from the bedroom is magnificent as I was situated 54th floors above the city. Guests at the hotel are given a free pass to the observatory on the 60th floor. I took the opportunity to check out the view, which was nice but nothing different from the Marriott.  However, the highlight was the architecture of the place with glass walls and the sun streaming through them. After the quick visit, I had enough time to eat lunch at Kaiten Sushi at the Kintetsu department store a few floors below. By the time I arrived around 11 o’clock, there was already a 30-minute wait. The restaurant offered affordable lunch sets and picture menus to assist foreigners. The sushi lunch was a tasty way to end my memorable feasting adventures in Osaka.

*Tip: Most restaurants do not have online reservation capabilities and reservations must be made over the phone a few weeks in advance for the top restaurants. If you are staying at a hotel, the concierge should be able to make the reservations for you. If you are lucky like me, my Japanese friend made all my reservations. Additionally, certain restaurants will not allow reservations for foreigners like Sushi Saeki .

For related articles, visit the TRAVEL page or the World Travel Index.

Author: Chau Hoang